THIS ISSUE

Brands in this issue include: H&M and Primark (among UK Parliamentary group supporters), Lidl, Lindex, Bestseller and Orsay (using chemical inventory app), Napapijri (to launch 100 percent recyclable jacket), Stella McCartney and People Tree (anti-slavery campaign), Stella McCartney (links with Extinction Rebellion), Zara (needs to slow down), and more.

Recently released reports:

In general news:

  • Sustainable Apparel Coalition report reveals consumers want more meaningful transparency from apparel brands and retailers

  • Sustainable Apparel Coalition appoints Amina Razvi as executive director

  • Young consumers prioritise style over eco-credentials

  • New update of Candidate List of substances of very high concern (SVHCs)

  • Is your favorite fashion brand greenwashing? Use this checklist to find out

The supply chain:

  • Bangladesh: Bangladesh’s rivers need urgent rehabilitation; government publishes guidelines aimed at regulating subcontracting in garment industry

  • Cambodia: garment workers faint in Phnom Penh factory; Cambodia strikes harm investment as EBA loss looms, says GMAC, and NSSF report highlights traffic accidents among garment workers

  • India: Women stitching garments at home entitled to provident fund

  • Mauritius: 65 Bangladeshi garment workers in Mauritius spending days without food and shelter

  • Philippines: TRABAHO Bill to see Philippine garment unit layoffs

Manufacturers in this issue include: Crystal Group (mixed results from sustainability report), HeiQ (PFC-Free DWR with dry cleaning durability), and more.

 Sustainable fashion jobs: 7 new job listed this issue (at Calvin Klein, Disney, Good Weave, Groupe ETAM, QuizRR, Reset Carbon, and VF).

By Stephen Frost, CUHK Business School, The Chinese University of Hong Kong.

BRANDS & RETAILERS

Fashion brands join campaign to stop slavery in supply chains: “Stella McCartney and People Tree among the companies taking action in partnership with charity International Justice Mission” (24 Jul).

Stella McCartney links with Extinction Rebellion members for new campaign: “Stella McCartney is continuing to target major environmental issues with her autumn/winter 2019 ad campaign and has enlisted the help of members of activist green group Extinction Rebellion” (24 Jul).

Zara built a $20B empire on fast fashion. Now it needs to slow down: “This week, the brand announced an ambitious plan to transition to sustainable fabrics and recycling. But it needs to rethink the design of its clothes, not just how they are manufactured” (24 Jul).

Napapijri to launch 100 percent recyclable jacket: “Premium casual-wear brand Napapijri, owned by VF Corporation, is launching its first 100 percent recyclable jacket, which it states can be “re-engineered, re-born, and re-imagined infinitely” as part of its circular fashion strategy” (24 Jul).

H&M, Primark among UK Parliamentary group supporters: “A new All-Party Parliamentary Group (APPG) formed off the back of the shunned Environmental Audit Committee report: ‘Fixing fashion: clothing consumption and sustainability', will look to reinforce the need for transformative change across the UK’s fashion industry after issuing a “call for evidence” to brand and retail partners (22 Jul – from Ecotextile News, subscription required to read full article).

App scans chemical inventory, helps compliance: “The Hong Kong business that’s launching the tool is already working with a number of leading textile chemical suppliers and brands such as Lidl, Lindex, Bestseller and Orsay. Speaking exclusively to Ecotextile News at the recent ITMA in Barcelona, the company says that in future, the app could also be integrated into existing textile industry chemical management tools as the industry works towards harmonisation” (11 Julfrom Ecotextile, subscription required to read full article).

NEWS & REPORTS   

Sustainable Apparel Coalition report reveals consumers want more meaningful transparency from apparel brands and retailers: “The Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), the leading association for the apparel, footwear and textile industry, today published Empowering Consumers Through Transparency, a report that explores consumer sentiment about the importance of transparency in the apparel, footwear, and textile industry. The report, which was commissioned by SAC and written by global research consultancy GlobeScan, is designed to contribute to the thinking and debate within the industry and to stimulate greater collaboration among brands, retailers, and manufacturers to engage consumers globally” (25 Jul).

Sustainable Apparel Coalition appoints Amina Razvi as executive director: “The Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC or The Coalition), the leading association representing the apparel, footwear and textile industry in sustainability, today announced that its board of directors has confirmed the appointment of Amina Razvi as Executive Director. Razvi has assumed day-to-day leadership of the Coalition and has responsibility for its global operations” (23 Jul).

Young consumers prioritise style over eco-credentials: “A survey conducted by student discounting service Unidays has found that Generation Z shoppers – those born between the mid-1990s and mid-2000s – are more inclined to purchase clothes they perceive to be ‘stylish’ over those produced in an environmentally-friendly way” (22 Jul – from Ecotextile News, subscription required to read full article).

New update of Candidate List of substances of very high concern (SVHCs): “On 16th July 2019, the ECHA (European Chemicals Agency) has released the new Candidate List of SVHCs. With the addition of 4 new substances, the current list of SVHCs contains 201 substances” (16 Jul).

Is your favorite fashion brand greenwashing? Use this checklist to find out: “How to tell the difference between brands that market themselves as sustainable and ones that actually commit to sustainability in a holistic way” (22 May).

THE SUPPLY CHAIN

Bangladesh

Bangladesh’s rivers need urgent rehabilitation: “According to Azad Majumder, Bangladesh has about 230 small and large rivers on which about 140 million people depend for living and transportation. But most of them are highly polluted and their beds are being encroached upon by powerful groups and even by common people. One of the main polluters of the rivers and water bodies is the country’s flourishing textile sector which contributes about 82% to the country’s total export revenue” (22 Jul).

Government publishes guidelines aimed at regulating subcontracting in garment industry: “A new guideline aimed at stemming unauthorised subcontracting in Bangladesh's textile and clothing sector will help control its ‘unplanned’ expansion - but at a risk of increased costs and lost jobs, industry owners warn” (19 Jul).

Cambodia  

Garment workers faint in Phnom Penh factory: “Nearly 40 garment workers at the New Fuma Costume factory in Phnom Penh’s Por Senchey district yesterday fainted and were sent to hospital” (23 Jul).

Cambodia strikes harm investment as EBA loss looms: GMAC: “The Garment Manufacturers Association in Cambodia (GMAC), which represents more than 600 factories and enterprises, recently cautioned that rising strikes in the garment, footwear and travel goods sector are hurting the investment climate as the threat of the country losing the benefit of the European Union’s (EU) ‘Everything But Arms’ (EBA) agreement prevails” (22 Jul).

NSSF report highlights traffic accidents among garment workers: “Two dozen garment workers were killed and nearly 1,000 others were injured in traffic accidents during the first half of this year, according to the National Social Security Fund” (22 Jul).

India

Women stitching garments at home entitled to PF: SC: “In a landmark judgement which may affect both government and private managements in India outsourcing the work to escape the labour laws by claiming that the persons so engaged are not their workers, the Supreme Court has declared that women tailoring garments at home for a company are entitled for the employees' provident fund (EPF) dues” (24 Jul).

Mauritius

65 Bangladeshi garment workers in Mauritius spending days without food and shelter: “Around 65 Bangladeshi garment workers, employed in Mauritius, were deprived of work and salaries for more than three months, and have been spending days without food and shelter. According to sources, Tex Knits Garment, a ready-made garment factory in Mauritius, did not pay salaries to 180 workers– including 65 Bangladesh workers – for two months, giving the excuse of lack of work orders” (23 Jul).

Philippines

TRABAHO Bill to see Philippine garment unit layoffs: study: “The labour-intensive garment manufacturing industry in the Philippines, which employs around 250,000, has warned of massive layoffs, with immediate impact on small companies, if the current Tax Reform for Attracting Better and Higher-quality Opportunities (TRABAHO) Bill is passed into law, according to a survey conducted in September last year by the Confederation of Wearable Exporters of the Philippines (CONWEP)” (24 Jul).

MANUFACTURERS   

Mixed results from Crystal sustainability report: “Asian clothing giant Crystal Group has touted its ‘sustainable’ progress in the company’s 2018 Sustainability Report, placing particular emphasis on its five-year sustainability targets and the progress made in the past year, including cutting the carbon footprint per garment by 6 per cent” (24 Jul – from Ecotextile News, subscription required to read full article).

HeiQ announces PFC-Free DWR with dry cleaning durability: “Swiss textile innovator HeiQ launches new fluorocarbon-free (PFC-free) products in their HeiQ Eco Dry product family for a full range of durable water repellence (DWR) technologies, for outdoor apparel to footwear and fashion. The newly introduced products are durable to dry cleaning” (18 July).

SUSTAINABLE FASHION JOBS

[New listings or updated information marked with *]

Adidas: Manager Sea Program Operations (Portland, OR)

Amazon: Social Responsibility, Senior Program Manager (Shenzhen, China)

BSR: HERproject Associate (Hong Kong)

BSR: Manager, Supply Chain Sustainability (New York)

C&A Foundation: Data Analyst (Gurgaon)

* Calvin Klein: Director, Corporate Social Responsibility (New York)

Canada Goose: Sr. Materials Developer, Fabric Research, Development & Sustainability (Toronto)

Canada Goose: Corporate Citizenship Department Coordinator (Toronto)

Canada Goose: Manager, Sustainability and Social Compliance Programs (Toronto)

Center for Child Rights and Corporate Social Responsibility (CCR CSR): Social Worker (Shenzhen)

Centric Brands: Global Sourcing & Compliance Analyst (New York)

Decathlon China: Supplier Quality Engineer (Shenzhen)

* Disney: Director, Environmental Science And Policy Analysis (Glendale, CA)

Disney: Manager, Audit Analysis, ILS (Glendale, CA)

Fjällräven: Brand Experience Coordinator (Stockholm)

Fur Europe: EU Policy and Environment Intern (Belgium)

Global Brands Group: Social & Environmental Affairs Officer (London)

Good Business Lab: Marketing and Partnerships Associate (Bengaluru/Delhi)

Good Business Lab: Data Associate (Bengaluru/Delhi)

Good Business Lab: Data Intern (Bengaluru/Delhi)

Good Business Lab: Research Associate (Bengaluru/Delhi)

* Good Weave: Director, Apparel and Fashion Jewelry (Washington DC)

GoodWeave: Program Officer (Washington DC)

* Groupe ETAM: Sustainability Manager (Hong Kong)

Gymshark: Sustainability Manager (Solihull)

H&M: Sustainability Developer (Yangon)

Hugo Boss: Corporate Sustainability Manager (Metzingen)

Hugo Boss: Sustainability & Innovation Manager (Metzingen)

ÏDKIDS: CSR Internship (Supplier Social Audits) (Pas-en-Artois)

Impactt: Senior Consultant – Social Auditing (London)

Kenneth Cole: Fall Internship Program – CSR (New York)

Kmart Australia: Human Rights Manager (Melbourne)

Kmart Australia: Sustainable Materials Manager (Melbourne)

Lululemon: Community Programs Lead AU/NZ (Melbourne)

Marc Fisher Footwear: Compliance Coordinator (Greenwich, CT)

Nakd: Corporate Social Responsibility Internship (Gothenburg)

Nike: Environmental Health & Safety Manager - Air MI (Phoenix, AZ)

Nike: Project Manager, Social Community Impact APAC (Tokyo)

Nike: Community Impact Director Latam (Mexico City)

Patagonia: Head of Supply Chain Environmental Responsibility (Ventura, CA)

PVH: Manager, Environmental Sustainability & Product Stewardship (New York)

Ralph Lauren: Associate, Global Employee Communications & Philanthropy (New York)

* QuizRR: Internal Sales Representative (Stockholm)

REI: Director, Communications and Public Affairs (Kent WA)

* Reset Carbon: Senior Consultant – Corporate Sustainability (Hong Kong)

s.Oliver: Senior Global Sustainability Manager Environment & Chemical Compliance (Rottendorf)

Solidarity Center: Senior Specialist for Organizing – Trade Union Strengthening Department (Phnom Penh)

Solidarity Center: Deputy Country Program Director (Phnom Penh)

Sustainable Apparel coalition: Operations Coordinator, Europe (Amsterdam)

TAL Apparel: Environmental Sustainability Executive (Hong Kong)

Tommy Hilfiger: Corporate Responsibility Coordinator (Amsterdam)

University of Leeds: Research Fellow in Sustainable Materials and Renewable Fibres (Leeds)

* VF: Sustainability Trainee (Stabio)

VF: Sustainable Operations Assistant Manager (Shanghai)

VF: Manager, Worker Rights (Hong Kong)

VF: Specialist, Supply Chain Sustainability (Shanghai)

Wearable Collections: Drivers, Route Helpers and Market Coordinators (New York)

WSR: Director of Outreach and Communications (New York)

CONFERENCES & SEMINARS                                        

[New listings or updated information marked with *]

04 September, Northampton: 1 Day Sustainability in the Leather Supply Chain Training Course: “An introductory one-day leather sustainability course covering supply chain management, traceability and materials sources, the leather making process, chemical management risks, environmental impacts and stewardship, NGO activity and the leather life cycle.”

05 September, Shanghai: How to assess a factory on Social, Health & Safety and Quality issues: “Be able to grasp the overall vision of an efficient quality process and avoid the critical non conformities in terms of social and health & safety performance.”

08 September, Dhaka, Bangladesh: GOTS Bangladesh Seminar 2019: “The theme of this year´s seminar is ‘Connecting for Success’. In 2018, Bangladesh reached second position (after India) in terms of GOTS certified facilities in the country. This growth trend showcases the commitment of the Bangladeshi textile industry to not only use organic fibres, but also to environmental and social compliances. Fire and Building Safety are included in GOTS criteria and the country has made significant progress in all these areas.” Speaking opportunities available: contacts at link. Click here to register.

* 10 September, Webinar: See What’s New – C2C Certified Version 4 Draft Standard: “introduce the Cradle to Cradle Certified Version 4 draft standard … free webinar.”

12 September, Shanghai: Environmental Awareness Training: “Know the requirements to control & reduce the environmental risks in the textile wet processing units, and understand how to better address critical topics such as Chemical Management and Wastewater Management in the factory with Effluent Treatment Plant.”

17 September, Hong Kong: Environmental Awareness Training: “Know the requirements to control & reduce the environmental risks in the textile wet processing units, and understand how to better address critical topics such as Chemical Management and Wastewater Management in the factory with Effluent Treatment Plant.”

19 September, Hong Kong: Chemical Management Training: “What are the key requirements in terms of proper chemical management in a textile factory to reduce the environmental & social risks?”

20 – 21 September, Dhaka, Bangladesh: Global Textile Forum – Gearing up for New Generation Textiles: “Global Textile Forum is an initiative, a platform to promote region’s textile and garment industry through Collaborative efforts.”

20 – 21 September: Sacramento: WB/Camp on Water-Based Printing: “first-of-its-kind summit on water-based ink printing, powered by the Specialty Graphic Imaging Association’s (SGIA) THREADX conference. Hosted by Motion Textile.”

09 – 10 October, San Diego: The Responsible Business Summit West 2019: “The Responsible Business Summit West focuses on what business needs to do to show leadership on key social and environmental challenges and opportunities.”

15 – 18 October: Vancouver: Textile Exchange Sustainability Conference: Driving impact through integrity and preferred fiber & materials.

23 – 24 October: Amsterdam: European Textile Polyester Summit 2019: “an insight into the European polyester market and its drivers and developments, as well as focus on feedstock availability and sustainability challenges.”

29 – 30 October: Washington DC: “Brands Taking Stands – What’s next?”: “bringing corporate leaders together on a fast-paced main stage, keenly focused on the ‘why’ and ‘how’ behind their thinking.”

* 01 November: Hong Kong: Crisis Management & Modern Slavery: “[The Mekong Club’s] intensive 3.5-hour workshop will equip you with the right tools to anticipate and prepare for a crisis, and teach you how to use crisis management principles effectively. A realistic modern slavery crisis scenario will be used so participants can practice these principles.”

04 – 05 November: Stockholm: Transforming Products for the Circular Economy: “This two-day forum will feature leading innovators, product designers, manufacturers and brands using Cradle to Cradle Certified to design and make safe, healthy materials and products for the circular economy.”

05 November: Dhaka, Bangladesh: Sustainable Apparel Forum: 2nd edition of a forum facilitated by the Bangladesh Apparel Exchange.

07 November, Chennai: 1 Day Chemical Compliance & Product Safety in the Supply Chain: “Manufacturers and suppliers who attend this one-day course can understand the importance of RSL and MRSL obligations for their business, key restricted substances and topical global legislation, as well as best practice guidance for implementation of MRSL compliance to satisfy the leather, footwear and apparel industries.”

12 – 14 November, San Jose, California: BSR Conference: “The 27th annual BSR Conference, one of the longest-running and most prestigious sustainable business events. This year, we will explore the transformations that are creating a new climate for business and help to pave the way for companies, people, and planet to thrive in this era of rapid change.”

20 November, Hong Kong: Half Day Sustainability in the Leather Supply Chain Training Course: This half-day leather sustainability course covers key aspects of traceability and material sourcing, chemical management risks, environmental impacts and stewardship, NGO activity and the leather life cycle.”

11 – 12 February, Cologne: 1st International Conference on Cellulose Fibres: “New International Conference on Cellulose Fibres, the fastest growing fibre group in textiles, the largest investment sector in the bio-based economy and the solution for avoiding microplastics.”

11 March, London: Drapers Sustainable Fashion 2020: “[With a] focus on collaborating for change within the fashion retail industry.”

(Photo Monika Häfliger, CCO)

Disclaimer: The Fashion Sustainability Week in Review (FSWIR) is a twice-weekly roundup of sustainability news items relevant to the fashion, apparel, textile and related industries. The views and opinions expressed in the FSWIR by individual authors and/or media outlets cited do not necessarily reflect the position of GoBlu International or any individual associated with the company.

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