BRANDS AND RETAILERS
Brands signing up to the 2018 Bangladesh Accord 04 Apr – 11 Apr: Brands signing up during the last week to the 2018 Accord include: Kid Interior, Kiltec Sport, Metro, Shop Direct, Fast Retailing (Uniqlo, Theory, J Brand, Princess tam.tam, GU, PLST, Comptoir de Cotonniers) (11 Apr). [Ed’s note: list gleaned from IndustriALL’s updates list of signatories here.]
A list of fur-free luxury fashion designers to shop from: [Ed’s note: from Elle.] Includes Gucci, Michael Kors, Jimmy Choo, Donatella Versace, Donna Karan/DKNY, Maison Margiela, Calvin Klein, Stella McCartney, Tommy Hilfiger, Giorgio Armani, Yoox Net-a-Porter, Ralph Lauren, Vivienne Westwood, The Kooples, and Hugo Boss (10 Apr).
Salvatore Ferragamo publishes sustainability report: “[Salvatore Ferragamo’s] 2017 Sustainability Report … has outlined a three-year plan with six main target areas to encourage sustainable development and to minimise environmental impacts caused by production” (10 April). [Ed’s note: see the full report here.]
Stella McCartney and Vivienne Westwood to be part of State of Fashion exhibition program: “State of Fashion, an upcoming Dutch initiative focused on sustainable fashion, has announced that British designers Stella McCartney and Vivienne Westwood will be part of the program’s main exhibition” (10 Apr).
REI Co-op introduces new standards to raise bar on sustainability across outdoor and retail industries: “To elevate sustainability across the outdoor and retail industries, REI Co-op today [09 Apr] debuted product sustainability standards that apply to each of the more than 1,000 brands sold at the co-op” (09 Apr). [Ed’s note: you can see the REI Product Sustainability Standards here.]
Zara partners with Redress in Hong Kong for in-store recycling: “You can now donate your unwanted clothes, shoes and accessories to our charity, Redress, via collection containers located in Zara’s Hong Kong SAR and Macau SAR stores (08 Apr).
From farm to fashion: A story about India’s first organic farm to sustainable fashion brand, Ethicus (07 Apr).
How Tchibo works for human rights in textile mills: “Apparel manufacturers such as C&A, H&M and Tchibo have their textiles produced cheaply in Asia, in countries where human rights and environmental standards are often negligible. In this interview, Tchibo director [of corporate responsibility] Nanda Bergstein tells how she wants to change that” (06 Apr – in German).
Arvato, C&A jointly rolls out new packaging solutions for e-commerce business: “In a recent development, Arvato SCM Solutions and C&A have jointly developed a new packaging solution to ship online fashion items. With the help of the new packaging solution, cartons of online fashion items can be automatically cut as per the actual size. (06 Apr).
Vaude underlines fight against environmentally harmful PFC: “The outdoor supplier wants to ban the environmentally harmful fluorocarbon (PFC) from all products. With the current collection, Vaude has come closer to this step” (06 Apr).
Elin Larsson: This is why we join the Global Fashion Agenda: “In May, Filippa K will join other advocates for change in the fashion industry for this year’s edition of the Copenhagen Fashion Summit, arranged by the Global Fashion Agenda. Elin Larsson will discuss progress alongside other fashion heavyweights such as Stella McCartney, Baptiste Carriere from Prada and Géraldine Vallejo of Kering” (06 Apr).
Wearable plastics: New Conscious Exclusive Collection highlights innovation in textiles: ““Working in the fashion business, I think that’s something you struggle with daily,” Ann-Sofie Johansson, creative adviser at H&M, says. “I love fashion and I want to continue to love that. But, how do we do that in the best possible way?”” (06 Apr).
PETA claims FDNY Foundation chief pulled support over Canada Goose fundraiser jacket over animal abuse: “The [FDNY] Foundation partnered with Canada Goose to produce and sell a limited-edition fundraiser jacket, which is available Friday [06 Apr]. But the day before coats hit shelves, PETA caused a flap by claiming it convinced Foundation chairman Steve Ruzow that Canada Goose abuses animals and got him to pull support for the coats” (06 Apr). [Ed’s note: Ruzow denies the PETA claim; see FDNY hits back at PETA over Canada Goose collaboration controversy (09 Apr).]
Primark collaborates with Henry Holland to create bags made from sustainable cotton: “Primark has just announced its collaboration with fun, quirky designer Henry Holland, who has designed four printed tote bags” (06 Apr).
Major fashion names among worst offenders in Britain gender pay gap: “This week, as the final hours ticked down to the deadline for British companies to report their gender pay gap data or face a fine, a flurry of last-minute filings revealed a stark and unflattering trend: Fashion and beauty brands, predominantly focused on female consumers and audiences, and often employing an overwhelmingly female staff, are among the worst offenders in the country when it comes to paying men more than women” (05 Apr). [Ed’s note: companies mentioned include Condé Nast Publications, Karen Millen, Victoria’s Secret, and Burberry.]
Patagonia vs. Donald Trump: “We all knew the legendary outerwear company Patagonia lived and breathed the adventurous life. We knew they cared about the environment. But it wasn’t till Trump came along that we realized they were ready to fight” (05 Apr).
Zalando’s socially conscious hackathon promotes transparency: “[Zalando] organized [its] first zIMPACT Hackathon, with the topic, “Supply Chain Transparency.” … Among the participants were the Dutch recycling certification startup, Remo; the Berlin-based Circular Design; Sustainabill, who work with supply chain software; from London, A Transparent Company, which leverages blockchain technology; also from Berlin, open source data focused, WikiRate; and from California, Labor Voices, who create auditing technology to improve working conditions” (05 Apr).
Birdsong releases first in ‘Worker to Wearer’ video series: “Most brands don’t know who makes their clothing. Birdsong is rallying the rest of the fashion world. We’re calling for a better industry, from worker to wearer” (05 Apr). [Ed’s note: see Birdsong Worker To Wearer Part 1. Design here.]
H&M’s woes mean fast fashion is getting worse, not better: “But do H&M’s troubles reflect the fact that shoppers are buying fewer pre-ripped jeans or jumping ship for more ethical and sustainable clothing brands? Hardly … Don't be fooled into thinking that if H&M fails, fast fashion will soon follow” (05 Apr).
Icebreaker aims to prove its apparel is ‘made different’ with new transparency report: “Outdoor apparel brand Icebreaker has reinforced its commitment to the use of natural fibres and sustainable production with the launch of its inaugural Transparency Report: Made Different. Touting it as an industry first, the report gives readers a full behind-the-scenes view of the brand’s entire operation” (04 Apr). [Ed’s note: see the report here.]
Gant is now turning ocean plastic into clothes: “The Stockholm-based fashion brand has launched a new “Beacons Project,” consisting of creating a new line of shirts made using upcycled plastic salvaged from the ocean by fishermen in the Mediterranean” (04 Apr).
Kering funds Sustainable Cashmere Project in Mongolia: “It is incredibly unusual for a fashion company to fund a scientific field study, this undertaken by [the Wildlife Conservation Society]. Yet this is what Kering did for the first two years of the Sustainable Cashmere Project. It represents a radical new model of business behaviour, with Kering then weaving in the other partners as the project gathered pace” (04 Apr).
John Galliano is the latest major designer to drop fur: “John Galliano – a long-time PETA target – announces in this week’s Elle France that he’ll no longer use fur in his designs” (04 Apr).
Interview with Mother of Pearl designer Amy Powney: “Mother of Pearl is sustainable in many ways, from running a plastic bottle-free studio with renewable energy supplying it, to knowing all our manufacturers from the beginning. With sustainability being a long standing passion of mine, I decided to take sourcing our supply chain to the next level” (04 Apr).
G-Star RAW + the most sustainable jeans ever: A podcast (#108, 30 minutes long) by Conscious Chatter with “two key players at G-Star RAW to the show – Adriana Galijasevic, their Denim and Sustainability Expert, as well as Frouke Bruinsma, corporate responsibility director at G-Star RAW” (03 Apr). [Ed’s note: Conscious Chatter is hosted by Kestrel Jenkins, and is a podcast weekly about all things fashion and sustainability.]
Perfectlinens launches organic sheets that don’t expose sleepers to hazardous chemicals at night: “Perfectlinens [has] launched Moreganic organic sheets to keep [sleepers] safe from organic sheets with chemicals. Made from 100% certified organic cotton, Moreganic organic are the only sheets that do not poison the environment or expose sleepers to hazardous chemicals at night” (03 Apr).
Call It Spring and ME to WE join forces with celebrity change-makers to encourage purchasing with purpose: “Launching a limited-edition line of socially conscious accessories, Call It Spring & ME to WE team up with Jordan Fisher and Bailee Madison to empower customers to be part of positive and long-term change for developing communities in Kenya” (03 Apr).
Bria and SABINNA transforming fashion collections into biodegradable materials: “In order to demonstrate their new developments to the fashion community, the teams at BRIA and SABINNA worked together to co-design and produce a capsule collection of garments made from solely cotton and viscose, which can then be processed in different ways at the end of their use” (02 Apr).
REPORTS AND COMMENTARY
Coming up (conferences/seminars)
16 April, London: FashMash Pioneers: Bioengineering a Better World with Bolt Threads: “We are at the beginning of a radical material revolution that will see us steadily move away from the petrochemical-based textiles that dominate much of the industry today, and instead turn to the science of bioengineering to create a more sustainable future.”
19 April, Amsterdam: True Fashion Talk (show): ‘How to Campaign for Change’: “This edition, we cover the question of how to campaign for change.”
22 April, London: call for participation at the Global Fashion Conference 2018: “The call for participation at the Global Fashion Conference 2018 is now open. Submit your contributions abstracts by 22nd April … The call is open to scholars, educators, industry and creative practitioners, NGOs, think-tanks, provocateurs, policymakers and others.”
23 – 28 April, London: FREE Ethical Pop-Up Shop & Sample Sale for Fashion Revolution Week: “From niche to norm: Ethical fashion and footwear take centre-stage during Fashion Revolution Week in this week-long community hub and pop-up boutique curated by Po-Zu.”
23 – 29 April, Fashion Revolution Week: “During Fashion Revolution Week, we will be publishing our ‘Manifesto for a Fashion Revolution’ with our clear demands for a better fashion industry of the future.”
24 April, London: Why Transparency Matters: “With co-founder and Creative Director of Fashion Revolution, Orsola de Castro, speaking with Emily Tilden-Smith from global leading law firm Baker McKenzie, this talk will touch upon the rising consumer demand for transparency around workers’ rights, the UK Modern Slavery act and what new brands need to look out for when developing their stance on sustainability.”
25 April, London: Next wave fashion tech: “In order to raise awareness about some of the challenges of fashion industry, as well as possible solutions, Women of Wearables are bringing together six female founders who will share their entrepreneurial stories and views on all things fashion tech, sustainability, smart textiles and everything in between!”
26 April, London: Sarabande Studios discuss ‘slow-motion practises: “Katie Roberts-Wood and John Alexander Skelton of Sarabande Studios as they discuss their ‘slow-fashion’ practises - brands that work as an antithesis to the mass-production of the fashion industry.”
02 May, Webinar: The Future of Sustainability: living in nonlinear times: “Join Sally Uren, CEO of leading international sustainability non-profit, Forum for the Future, as she reveals our take on the future of sustainability and explains how you can understand the implications for your business.”
10 – 11 May, Izmir, Turkey: Regional Organic Cotton Round Table: “Textile Exchange’s Organic Cotton Round Table (OCRT) has evolved to become THE shared space for the organic cotton community to gather and collaborate.”
15 – 16 May, Copenhagen: Innovation Forum at Copenhagen Fashion Summit: “Innovation Forum will present a curated trade and exhibition area enabling participating fashion brands to meet with +50 solution providers covering the entire supply chain – from innovative fabrics to green packaging solutions, and from new disruptive ideas to tried and tested large-scale solutions.”
22 May, Vancouver: Planet Textiles 2018: Discover the future, understand the trends, meet the new leaders, connect, and explore the ecosystem.
29 May, Coimbatore: GOTS India Seminar 2018: GOTS India Seminar 2018 will provide a platform for focused and challenging discussions under the theme “Sustainability as Key to Business Efficiency.”
31 May – 1 June, Arnhem, the Netherlands: The Fashion Colloquium: Searching for the new luxury: “The Fashion Colloquium: Searching for the New Luxury will explore new definitions of ‘luxury’ against the backdrop of urgent environmental and social issues.”
1 June – 22 July, Arnhem, the Netherlands: State of Fashion: Searching for the New Luxury: “7 weeks of exhibition and events in Arnhem, searching for the new luxury.”
Greenpeace rates eco textile labels: Greenpeace rates the eight most important eco textile labels in the 5th edition of Textil-Siegel im Greenpeace-Check. The ranking is: (at 3 stars) IVN Best, GOTS, Made in Green; (2 stars) Der Blaue Engel, Bluesign, Cradle to Cradle, EU-Ecolabel); (1 star) Oeko-Tex Standard 100 (April – in German). [Ed’s note: download full report here – in German.]
The Chinese workers who assemble designer bags in Tuscany: “Many companies are using inexpensive immigrant labor to manufacture handbags that bear the coveted “Made in Italy” label” (16 Apr) [Ed’s note: a long article from The New Yorker.]
Remembering Rana Plaza: Conference hosted by the Ford Foundation, Novo Foundation, 21st Century ILGWU Heritage Fund, and Open Society Foundation). The entire event was livestreamed (3:33:32 video recording). Features numerous speakers well known in the field (10 Apr).
Global ‘TripAdvisor’ for migrant workers takes aim at modern slavery: “[Thomson Reuters Foundation reports] migrant workers can now rate their recruiters and warn others of potential abuses on a global portal aimed at stamping out modern slavery that mirrors reviews on the travel website TripAdvisor” (10 Apr).
New standard to tackle garment worker harassment? “[The upcoming 107th International Labour Conference will] discuss whether to move forward in the standard setting process for a new potential instrument on violence against men and woman in work” (10 Apr). [Ed’s note: See story below on Fair Wear Foundation’s contribution.]
Wool producers urged to take part in quality assurance programs for animal welfare: “Wool markets across the world are increasingly demanding high standards for animal welfare when purchasing fleece” (10 Apr – 13:56 podcast from the Australian Broadcasting Corporation). [Ed’s note: includes comments from Textile Exchange.]
Circular fashion games reward sustainability, circular economy ideas: “The first edition of the Circular Fashion Games wrapped up last month in the Netherlands, but international expansion is already planned … with this year’s top prize going to Lenzing for an online tool that will provide free access to information about circular use of the company’s fibers in apparel design” (10 Apr).
From seed to product: tracing GMO free cotton: “Oeko-Tex adds a unique testing service to its Standard 100 certification that evaluates organic cotton for GMOs” (10 Apr).
Fast fashion kills: why you should buy local: “Labour Behind the Label is an organisation campaigning for workers’ rights in the clothing industry. “No brand is totally dirty but as well no brand is totally clean,” said Caroline Lewis, Director of Fundraising” (09 Apr).
Can fashion save the planet? [Ed’s note: article in Elle India.] “While fashion players are galvanising into action, consumers can and should do their part too. Gautam Vazirani, fashion curator, IMG Reliance, stresses on individual responsibility” (09 Apr).
Clothing consumption habits in France, 2017: A survey: The Collectif Démarqué (Branded Collective) has released a survey on clothing consumption habits in France, based on responses from 500 young people. The report contains a lot of data presented graphically and is an interesting snapshot of French fashion consumers. You can download the report here [PDF] (09 Apr – in French).
Textile tagging – potential lies beyond merely sorting & recycling: “A new report by Mistra Future Fashion provides an overview of present and future possibilities made available by textile tagging” (09 Apr). [Ed’s note: see the report, “Textile tagging to enable automated sorting and beyond – a report to facilitate an active dialogue within the circular textile industry,” in full here.]
Sustainable textile innovations: kapok fibres: “For example, if 1 kilogram of cotton, which is needed to make four t-shirts, is blended with just 30 percent of kapok, a whopping 3,000 litres of waters are saved, the equivalent of 15 full bathtubs!” (09 Apr).
In China, the sharing economy stretches to fashion as millennials seek way around shortage of quality affordable designs: “Apps such as home-grown YCloset and MSParis, and US-based Le Tote, tap demand from young professionals for affordable luxury rentals and from college-age fast-fashion fans without the income to constantly update looks” (08 Apr).
Prince Charles: how fashion can help mend the planet: “Granted rare access to Prince Charles at home, The Australian Financial Review Magazine hears our future king’s thoughts on how the fashion industry needs to tackle its greatest challenge: sustainability” (06 Apr).
‘Ethical fashion is about gender rights’: Vogue’s Bandana Tewari: ““When you see clothes that look like they’ve been embroidered by hand, it’s probably an Indian woman who is sitting in a village after she’s fed her kids, who sits in her one-bedroom home, on her bed, and does hundreds of these T-shirts,” she says. “Ethical fashion is about human rights and gender rights” (06 Apr).
Nanomaterial drawn from seaweed can clean toxic water: “[A] team of Indian scientists has developed a nanomaterial drawn from seaweed for effective treatment of toxic wastewater without using any chemicals” (06 Apr).
Amsterdam to follow in the footsteps of San Francisco with fur ban? “The city of Amsterdam may become the next city to implement a fur ban, following news that the municipality aims to ban all fur sales in its markets” (06 Apr).
Textile Standards & Legislation: “The new Eco Textile Labelling Guide has been released. The Eco Textile Labelling Guide is a standard work when it comes to labels for responsible sourcing and more sustainable production of textiles” (06 Apr).
5 years after the world’s largest garment factory collapse, is safety in Bangladesh any better? ““The factories have the fear of losing contracts if they don’t respond to the push for safety. If you take that relationship away from the factories, I’m not sure what leverage they would have to drive progress in the factories”” (06 Apr).
Cotton Incorporated reveals results of 2017 Global Environment Survey: “New videos and charts featuring compelling data about the growing focus of sustainability around the globe are now available from Cotton Incorporated. The data comes from the results of the 2017 Global Environment Survey by Cotton Council International (CCI) and Cotton Incorporated” (05 Apr).
GOTS gets two new leaders: “After leading the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) nonprofit since it was founded in 2002, Herbert Ladwig has stepped down as managing director, turning leadership over to two people” (05 Apr).
Achieving a sustainability-centric retail model: “Sustainability is increasingly becoming a board level issue, with 42% of fashion brands now publishing information on suppliers” (05 Apr).
New Oeko-Tex regulations come into effect: “The modifications of the existing guidelines in the Oeko-Tex product portfolio have now come into effect following a three-month transition period and are valid for all certification systems and other services” (05 Apr).
China goes green: Fact or fiction? “It is therefore a little contrary to this environmental charm offensive that one of the largest Chinese petrochemical plants – closed for three years following a huge fire – looks set to reopen with the aim of capitalising on what sources have described as a “growing global demand for virgin polyester”” (05 Apr – subscription required to read full article).
Why #metoo doesn’t reach women workers in garment factories: “Women workers in the garment industry in south Asia sadly, are unlikely to benefit [from the #metoo campaign]. Not because they lack smart phones and so can’t use the hashtag. No, the reason is that western buyers are not using their leverage to force suppliers to do anything” (05 Apr). [Ed’s note: by Stirling Smith, ETI trainer and blogger.]
Connecticut could be next to require action on polyester apparel pollution: “A bill is pending in California that would require a warning label on polyester clothing, alerting consumers that washing polyester contributes to microfiber pollution, and now the Connecticut legislature has taken up the issue” (05 Apr).
UN committee implores Bangladesh to step up its game on wages, labour rights and compensation: “The United Nations Committee on Economic, Social and Cultural Rights has this week urged the government of Bangladesh to ensure a decent wage for all workers, to revise its labour laws and to make haste with the adoption of a national employment injury scheme” (05 Apr).
Meet Sung Yi Hsuan: Finalist Redress Design Award 2017: “In my point of view, raising the public’s awareness of environmental issues can be the best starting point. Consumers should be better educated with how and why they should change their fashion attitude into a more sustainable way of consumption, and I believe it’s our duty as designers to do this” (05 Apr).
A seminar on responsible business practices in Sindh: “The meeting was the first of a series of such multi-stakeholder dialogues being organized by PILER and ETI to promote collaboration between government, the private sector and civil society” (05 Apr).
How to stop your khakis from killing forests: “Most shoes are made of leather, while more and more shirts are made of cellulosic fibers derived from wood. Companies around the world are chopping down forests to make these products, accelerating climate change in the process. Here’s what some companies are doing to slow the process, and how you can support them” (04 Apr). [Ed’s note: article mentions Inditex, Marks & Spencer, ASOS, H&M, Timberland, Levi Strauss, Clarks, C&A.]
How luxury fashion brands are investing in technology to offer sustainable, eco-friendly clothing: “Luxury brands are investing in groundbreaking technology to offer top-of-the-line clothing suited to dynamic movement” (04 Apr).
Why all companies sourcing apparel from Bangladesh should join the 2018 Accord: “[By] Liana Foxvog, International Labor Rights Forum, & Christie Miedema, Clean Clothes Campaign. The Bangladesh Accord has led to important improvements in standards. We can't let companies replace it with complacency” (04 Apr).
Millennials thrift shop more than any generation, but they are also the most wasteful: “[P]eople from ages 18 to 34, on average, only wear an item one to five times before discarding it [but] 77 percent of millennials want to buy from environmentally-conscious brands” (04 Apr).
From ocean plastics to social impact, the apparel sector realizes responsibility pays off: “As consumers become more discerning about the companies from which they purchase clothing, more brands are stepping up and showing that they are willing to take a stand on social and environmental challenges” (04 Apr). [Ed’s note: article mentions Patagonia, Nike, REI, Athleta (by Gap), Adidas, Gant, and Stella McCartney.]
Bangladesh garment worker organizer: ‘Lives are being transformed’: “I am Monira Akter, working with Bangladesh Independent Garment Workers Union Federation (BIGUF) as an organizer for the past six years” (03 Apr).
Developing a Financially Viable Ethical Labour Recruitment Model: Prospects for the Myanmar-Thailand Channel. Bangkok: “This paper provides analysis and perspective of labour recruitment along the Myanmar-Thailand corridor – the largest source and destination countries for migrant workers within the intra-ASEAN region. It seeks to advance our understanding of current practices and proposes steps to drive Thailand and Myanmar along a more ethical recruitment track” (March). [Ed’s note: from the Issara Institute and covers garment and footwear.]
Kigali says no to Washington and sees its exports to the United States threatened: “To enable its textile industry to expand, Rwanda has decided to increase taxes on second-hand goods from the United States, a decision the Trump administration has not accepted” (30 Mar – in French).
Sedex Conference 2018 summary: “The Sedex Conference 2018 … brought together world-leaders in sustainability to discuss the various ways in which we can go ‘beyond compliance’, through practical examples, panel sessions and debates” (29 Mar).
Violence and harassment against women and men in the global garment supply chain: “A Fair Wear Foundation contribution to the standard-setting discussions at the 107th International Labour Conference on ending violence and harassment against women and men in the world of work” (12 Mar).
UN project targets greener textile chemistry in Vietnam: “A joint three-year project has been launched by the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) and the Vietnam Chemicals Agency aimed at promoting the application of Green Chemistry in the nation and reducing the use of hazardous chemicals” (10 Apr – subscription required to read full article).
Fibersort embodies Dutch recycling revolution: “Fibersort, the collaborative project responsible for an automated solution to sorting post-consumer textiles is only in its second month of operation but has already attracted large levels of industry interest, culminating in a ‘Demo Day’ which saw 130 attendees examine the technology first-hand” (10 Apr – subscription required to read full article).
Reclassify biosludge as non-hazardous waste, urges Indian textile dyeing cluster: “Textile dyeing cluster in the district has demanded the central government to reclassify biological sludge (microbes) generated in effluent treatment plants (ETPs) as non-hazardous waste. Eve[r] since zero liquid discharge (ZLD) system was implemented, the ETPs were looking for ways to dispose of 30 tonnes of biosludge generated daily as it was classified under hazardous category” (07 Apr).
Textile industry waste management market anticipate to grow at a CAGR of 11% by 2022: “The report covers the present scenario and the growth prospects of the global textile industry waste management market for 2017-2021. To calculate the market size, the report includes new installations of wastewater treatment and water purification equipment and excludes aftermarket/services market” (07 Apr).
Pakistan’s complex relationship with water: “[D]espite consuming less than 3 percent of the country’s water. Competitive local textile companies like Artistic Milliners, Soorty Enterprises, Indus Dyeing and many more are focusing on water conservation efforts to not only reduce water consumption, but make a bigger business case for their buyers abroad that believe in environmental stewardship and products made with as little water as possible” (07 Apr).
We’ve most competitive ZLD tech: Arvind Envisol chief: “Even as textile exporters of Tiruppur and Karur crib about how they were impacted by the introduction of zero liquid discharge (ZLD) norms, an Ahmedabad company [Arvind Envisol] has shown how the technology can be implemented at a third of the cost incurred by other competing technologies” (02 Apr).
THE SUPPLY CHAIN
Bangladesh Alliance factories completing upgrades 04 Apr to 11 Apr: Z-3 Composite Knitwear Ltd., Starlight Knitwear Ltd. (Unit 2), Nassa Knit Ltd., Nassa Apparels Ltd (Unit 2), Standard Group Ltd., Knit Moon Ltd., Loyaltext Ltd., Sparrow Apparels Ltd., SNV Stitches Ltd. (11 Apr). [Ed’s note: this list is gleaned from the Bangladesh Alliance Twitter feed.]
Workers Resource Centre launched in Bangladesh: “Workers Resource Centre (WRC) launched today [11 Apr] in Bangladesh to build capacity of garment unions. WRC is supported by ILO, Sweden and Denmark” (10 Apr).
Accord’s extension now more difficult: “The Accord’s bid to stay on in Bangladesh for three more years has become trickier after the High Court this week restrained the government for extending the inspection agency’s tenure because of a writ petition filed by Smart Jeans” (10 Apr). [Ed’s note: see also, HC restrains Accord extension: “The High Court has asked the government not to extend the fire and building safety programme of Accord, the platform of European Union buyers and retailers, in Bangladesh beyond May 31 until further order” (10 Apr).]
31pc of RMG factories make no progress in remediation works: “About 31 per cent of readymade garment factories, inspected under the national initiative, have completely failed to fix safety faults, while 36 per cent of factories made less than 30 per cent progress in repairing structural, fire and electrical faults in the units” (10 Apr).
Bangladeshi union leader on facing retaliation for organizing with the help of Accord: “The authority even tried to torture us physically and scare us off using hired thugs (10 Apr – 1:33 minute video at “Has anything changes since Rana Plaza,” 10 April, hosted by the Ford Foundation, Novo Foundation, 21st Century ILGWU Heritage Fund, and Open Society Foundation). [Ed’s note: see the full event online here – 3:33:32 livestream video recording.]
Bangladesh sentences man to death for murder of union leader: “A Bangladesh court Sunday [08 Apr) sentenced a man to death in absentia for murdering a union leader who led strikes in the powerful garment industry. A court in the northern district of Tangail ordered that factory worker Mustafizur Rahman be hanged for kidnapping and murdering high-profile unionist Aminul Islam in 2012. (08 Apr).
Fixing Bangladesh’s factories “not possible” without Western fashion activists [Q&A]: “In this interview, we talk to a local expert, professor Shahidur Rahman of Dhaka, Bangladesh’s BRAC University, about what has changed since the Rana Plaza factory collapse and how the power of Western consumers can be better leveraged as a force for good” (07 Apr).
Clean Clothes Campaign calls for immediate release of Bangladesh trade unionists held on false charges: “The Clean Clothes Campaign is calling for the immediate release of seven trade union leaders from the Garment Workers Trade Union Centre in Bangladesh, detained last week on the basis of apparently false charges filed against them by the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association” (07 Apr). [Ed’s note: the CCC letter was reported in local Bangladeshi media.]
HC grants interim bail to 7 trade union leaders: “The High Court on Thursday [05 Apr] granted interim bail to seven leaders of Trade Union Centre (TUC) of garments workers in a case filed over attacking and assaulting officials and employees of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) on January 31” (05 Apr).
Women lead push for rights in Bangladesh’s fashion factories: “[Thomson Reuters Foundation reports] when Ayesha Akhter walks into the factory where she works, the supervisor greets her with a smile and wishes her a pleasant day – a major change after years of physical and verbal abuse from managers” (05 Apr). [Ed’s note: mentions Jeans Factory Ltd.]
One killed, two burnt in city factory fire: “One person died and two others were injured in a fire that broke out at an embroidery factory at Kazipara area in the capital’s Mirpur early Saturday [31 Mar]” (31 Mar).
More than 2,500 garment workers receive unpaid wages: “Garment workers from four out of nine factories whose employers fled the country without paying their wages and other benefits began receiving their payout from the government yesterday [09 Apr] while the rest will receive it after Khmer New Year” (10 Apr).
Payouts raise concerns for garment workers at shuttered factories: “Garment workers from four factories have raised concerns over compensation packages prepared by the Labour Ministry and posted on the walls of the factories, claiming the allotments do not match how much was owed to them” (09 Apr).
Garment workers feel cheated: “Nearly one hundred former garment factory workers in Phnom Penh rallied for intervention from Prime Minister Hun Sen yesterday [08 Apr] after discovering that they will not receive as much compensation as promised by the Labour Ministry earlier this month” (09 Apr).
Garment workers to be reimbursed: “Labour Minister Ith Sam Heng said abandoned workers at Benoh Apparel, Yu Fa Garment Industry, Great Honour Textile Factory and Chung Fai Knitwear will get the compensation next week [after employers absconded owing back pay]” (04 Apr).
Pregnant worker dies while waiting for ride: “A 22-year-old pregnant worker from Shuang Li (Cambodia) Garment Co Ltd … died on Wednesday [28 Mar] after fainting while waiting for a truck to take her home, according to the National Social Security Fund” (30 Mar).
Two workers killed in fire at footwear factory in Narela: “Two workers were killed in a fire that broke out at a footwear manufacturing unit in outer Delhi’s Narela” (08 Apr).
Act against factory management: PUCL to cops: “The People’s Union for Civil Liberties has called on the Madanayakanahalli police and the owners of Shahi Exports Pvt Ltd (Unit 8) to take immediate action in the case of an alleged assault by the factory management on 12 garment workers” (07 Apr).
Fire breaks out in garment factory in Nanakpura: “The fire broke out at third floor of Atma Hosiery … Initially the fire brigade is citing short circuit to be the reason behind the blaze” (06 Apr).
Factory workers thrashed for joining union: “The HR staff of a garment factory [Shahi Exports Pvt Limited Unit-8], who assaulted 12 workers for joining a union and fighting for their rights, were booked by the city police on Wednesday” (05 Apr).
Efforts made for emergence of Industrial Zones Law: “Discussions are being made on the enactment of the Industrial Zones Law as lack of law hampers development of industrial zones and make foreign investors difficult, according to the Ministry of Industry” (05 Apr).
Workers ask government to monitor wage hike implementation: “Following the decision by the National Committee for the Minimum Wage to increase the daily basic wage to K4800, a campaign has been organised to call for the government to strictly enforce its implementation” (03 Apr).
Workers seek reforms in budget to raise wages: “A National Conference has demanded of the federal and provincial governments to introduce reforms in the national and provincial budgets to raise the wages and pension allowance of the workers employed in government and private sectors at the rate of 50 percent and tackle rising abject poverty, aggravating unemployment and rising price hike, irrational gap between the rich and poor in the society” (10 Apr).
Labor groups seek wage hike: “The Associated Labor Union-Trade Union Congress of the Philippines (ALU-TUCP) … along with six other labor organizations, has filed separate across-the-board wage hike, ranging from P120 to P155.80 across-the-board for workers in Central Visayas” (09 Apr).
Pension, social allowance to be increased: “Pension and monthly allowance will be increased by 6.92 per cent from July, and more than three million people are eligible for the revised pension and allowance, according to a draft decree by the Ministry of Labour, Invalids and Social Affairs (MOLISA)” (06 Apr).
Fire destroys Texhong Yinlong's 8,000sq.m factory: “Before the embers cooled after the 15-hour fire at the factory of Texhong Yinlong in Hai Yen Industrial Park, the Mong Cai People’s Committee held a press conference to announce the first findings” (04 Apr).
Disclaimer: The Fashion Sustainability Week in Review (FSWIR) is a weekly roundup of sustainability news items relevant to the fashion, apparel, textile and related industries. The views and opinions expressed in the FSWIR by individual authors and/or media outlets cited do not necessarily reflect the position of GoBlu or any individual associated with the company.